Jewelry & Watches
Selling Jewelry & Watches in Southern California
I Buy It buys signed designer jewelry, diamond and colored-stone pieces, luxury watches, high-karat gold and platinum, and vintage and Art Deco jewelry. The single biggest factor in value is the signature. A piece marked by a major maison carries a significant premium over the value of its metal and stones alone.
What we buy
- Signed designer jewelry: Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari
- Diamond and colored-stone pieces
- Luxury watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega
- High-karat gold and platinum jewelry
- Vintage and Art Deco pieces
How to tell if it’s valuable
- It is signed by a major maison. Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari command the strongest premiums over intrinsic value.
- The metal is solid high-karat gold or platinum, with substantial stones and clear hallmarks. 18k/750 is preferred over lower karat.
- A watch is complete, with original papers, box, and serial numbers that match. Original box, papers, and matching serial and reference numbers can materially improve confidence in a luxury watch’s identity and completeness.
- Hallmarks and serials are legible and consistent with the brand.
How to identify it
- Maker’s marks. Check the clasp, the inside of the band, and the case back. Look for clear stamps such as “CARTIER” or “TIFFANY & CO.”
- Karat and assay marks. Look for 14k, 18k, 750, or 585, plus any French or U.S. assay stamps.
- Serial and reference numbers. On a watch, check the case back, the movement, and any papers. These should be able to be matched to brand archives.
- Metal and construction. Weight and testing tell you whether a piece is solid precious metal or plated. Solid is preferred.
- Paperwork. Original boxes, papers, and receipts matter, especially on watches.
What usually isn’t valuable
- Costume jewelry, plated pieces, and unsigned mass-market items. These are generally limited to scrap or low decorative value.
- Modern unsigned jewelry without significant stones often has value driven primarily by metal content rather than designer or collector demand.
- Ordinary household goods are outside what we buy.
How to photograph it for an evaluation
- The full piece, in focus, on a plain background
- Close-ups of every hallmark and stamp, including clasp and inside band
- Close-ups of serial and reference numbers
- Clear shots of the stones and the settings
- For watches: dial, case back, clasp, and movement if accessible
- Any original papers, warranty cards, or box
- Weight on a scale if you have one
Common questions
Is my jewelry worth more than its gold weight?
That depends on whether it is signed and what stones it holds. Signed pieces from the major houses carry significant premiums, while modern unsigned jewelry without significant stones often comes back close to melt value. For plain gold and silver by weight, see our gold and sterling page.
Where do I find the hallmark?
Check the clasp, the inside of the band, and the case back. Hallmarks are small, so a phone macro shot in good light usually works best.
Do I need the box and papers for my watch?
They help. Original papers, box, and matching serial numbers can make a watch easier to evaluate and may improve buyer confidence.
Can you tell if it’s real from a photo?
Photos of the hallmarks, serials, and stones get us most of the way there. Final authentication relies on hallmark review, serial matching, and movement inspection.
Do you buy Art Deco and vintage jewelry?
Yes. Vintage and Art Deco pieces are a category we actively buy, particularly in solid precious metal with good stones.
Related: Gold & Sterling Silver
Send photos through the form on our site, by email, or by text. We respond within 24 hours. We serve Southern California: Orange County, Los Angeles County, San Diego County, Riverside County, and San Bernardino County.
Have jewelry or a watch?
Send photos of the piece, the hallmarks, and any papers.