Coins & Collections
Selling Coins & Collections in Southern California
I Buy It buys U.S. silver and gold coins, key-date and mint-marked issues, bullion, and whole collections including stamps and medals. The single biggest factor in value is the combination of date, mint mark, and condition. Precious-metal content sets a floor, but those three together decide whether a coin sells far above melt.
What we buy
- U.S. silver coins, including pre-1965 dimes, quarters, halves, and silver dollars
- Classic U.S. gold coins
- Key-date and mint-marked coins
- Bullion and rounds
- Other collections, such as stamps and medals — whole collections preferred
How to tell if it’s valuable
- It contains precious metal. Pre-1965 U.S. silver and classic U.S. gold have a clear melt floor, and common-date silver dollars and 90% silver trade near or above melt when spot is high.
- It is a key date or scarce mint mark in high grade. Examples include the 1893-S Morgan, the 1909-S VDB cent, and Carson City issues. Date plus mint mark plus condition matters more than age alone.
- It is in original packaging, a complete set, or a documented collection. Whole collections are easier to evaluate than loose mixed lots.
- It is certified and slabbed by PCGS or NGC.
How to identify it
- Date and mint mark. The mint mark is usually on the reverse or near the date. Philadelphia coins often have no mint mark. D, S, CC, and O each change the issue.
- Metal. Pre-1965 dimes, quarters, and halves are 90% silver, as are Morgan and Peace dollars. Post-1964 coinage is generally clad.
- Magnet test. A magnet does not stick to silver or gold.
- Condition. Look at wear on the high points, remaining luster, and whether the surfaces are original.
- Do not clean anything. Leave the surfaces as they are.
What usually isn’t valuable
- Common circulated coins with no silver or gold content. Most post-1964 clad change and ordinary pocket change carry little collector value.
- Heavily cleaned or damaged coins. Cleaning reduces collector premiums even when the metal content is unchanged.
- Mixed lots photographed without visible dates and mint marks. These are hard to price above a rough melt estimate.
How to photograph it for an evaluation
- Both sides of each notable coin, or a clear group shot of the collection
- Close-ups of dates and mint marks
- Any slabs, certification labels, or original holders
- An overview of the full collection so we can see the volume
Common questions
How much is my coin collection worth?
Silver and gold content set the floor, and date, mint mark, and grade determine anything above that. Send an overview shot plus close-ups of the dates and mint marks and we’ll tell you what we see.
Should I clean my coins before sending photos?
No. Cleaning reduces collector premiums even when the metal content remains the same. Send them as they are.
How do I tell if my coins are silver?
U.S. dimes, quarters, and halves dated 1964 and earlier are 90% silver, as are Morgan and Peace dollars. A magnet will not stick to silver.
Does it matter that my collection is loose and mixed?
We will still look at it, but whole, organized collections are easier to evaluate. Loose lots with no visible dates or mint marks can usually only be estimated near melt.
Where is the mint mark?
Usually on the reverse or near the date, depending on the series. No mint mark often means Philadelphia.
Related: Gold & Sterling Silver
Send photos through the form on our site, by email, or by text. We respond within 24 hours. We serve Southern California: Orange County, Los Angeles County, San Diego County, Riverside County, and San Bernardino County.
Have a coin collection?
Send photos of both sides, dates, and mint marks.